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INTERVIEW

PURSUIT OF IMPERFECTION

Why London style makers are clamouring for the soulful jewellery of William Welstead

The glittering world of jewellery is full of talented trinket makers, but not many of them – certainly none who are self-taught – garner the respect and recognition that William Welstead does while managing to stay under the radar. Welstead may prefer to keep as low a profile as possible but his name is becoming increasingly well known among style makers and people who can. Aristocrat and Chanel muse Amanda Harlech, Russian fashion princess Natalia Vodianova and reluctant supermodel Stella Tennant are among his private clients, while Stella McCartney and Ralph Lauren are also fans. 

Having started out earning a living hawking pashminas to glossy magazine girls in Mayfair, Welstead began to develop an interest in the antique jewellery he came across on buying trips to Kathmandu, and eventually decided to enrol on a course at the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. 

The cashmere business financed his first buying trip to India in 2000 and he got a leg-up from Fred Leighton, the bigwig New York jeweller, who introduced him to a reliable family of diamond dealers in Mumbai. On his return home to Gloucestershire (where he is still based), he started making playful strings of briolette-cut diamond beads for tucked-away Knightsbridge boutique Egg, with which London’s discerning elite fell head over heels. 

Since then his jewellery has become a little more grown-up, while retaining the played down appeal for which he has became known. Passionate about sourcing stones with character, Welstead finds beauty in imperfection, though he points out, “There’s a big di erence between charmingly fl awed stones and ugly ones.” He has a preference for hard-to-find cuts. “They’re naturally formed so it’s part of the charm that they’re so elusive. A lot of my clients appreciate that ephemeral element.” 

The going rate for one of Welstead’s pieces ranges from £2,500 to around £40,000, but he is adamant that beauty has nothing to do with price. “I love getting a commission that really means something.” His work has a certain soul and sensitivity to it, making it perfect future heirloom material. “I do my own thing,” he smiles shyly. “I don’t think anyone else’s way is the wrong way but if you’re after a standard, emerald cut stone I’m probably not your man.” 

View William Welstead’s new collection by appointment at Harry Fane, at Dover Street Market.

04/09/2012

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